FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Over the years, we get a lot of questions! Here's a list of the most common problems we come across.
Great place to learn about your HVAC system from a professional contractor. Click any question below for more information.
A common issue we see on service calls is a dirty air filter. This makes your system work harder and circulates dirty air. But changing your filter regularly, especially when allergens are high, is an easy way to (1) improve your air quality and (2) save $ on your electric bill.
Helpful tip: Set a reminder on your phone to check and change your filters each month. We offer a variety of high quality air filters. Request one before your next service call or tune-up.
Don't just remove it! While removing a dirty filter relieves pressure on the system, it can't perform well without one. Unfiltered dust and grime accumulate on critical parts like the evaporator coil, causing unnecessary wear and tear.
A yearly tune-up of your heating and cooling system can improve efficiency and comfort. But it does much more than that.
A maintenance call is quite inexpensive compared to bigger problems that can develop. I have had several customers call for a repair months after I had recommended a tune up. Most of the time, the repair costs are much higher than the cost of the tune up would have been.
Some of the issues that can occur without regular maintenance and cost the homeowner money are:
Maintenance calls are $105 and include a full tune-up. Bi-Annual Preventative Maintenance is a priority service with no overtime charges and starts at $17.50 month.
Most likely the problem is with the condensate pump or condensate drain (or trap). That small box next to your furnace or indoor unit is the condensate pump. Its job is to pump and lift water to a drain or outside source. The condensate drain can become clogged with sediment and biological growth, just through normal use of your system. Or the condensate pump can break, needing repair or replacement.
Some people pour bleach in the condensate drain to eliminate growth. But that doesn't necessarily mean the trap is clean. It could still be clogged with sediment, dirt and dust from the air and rust from coils.
A spring HVAC tune-up would have avoided this problem! Getting a spring maintenance is the best way to get your system ready for the summer months. If you are concerned about your floors, ask to install a float switch - a safety switch to prevent damage to floors in the future.
Your heat pump works by pulling heat from the air outside your home. The colder the temperature is, the more difficult it is for your heat pump to keep up.
Emergency heat uses strips of electric heating coils. Heat strips are wire elements in your unit that are heated by electricity, which in turn heat the air that flows over them. Strip heat is not nearly as energy efficient as your heat pump's normal function and requires much more energy.
When the temps drop to 30 and below, your system will switch to emergency heat to keep up with the temperature your set. So don't adjust your thermostat erratically. To raise the temperature, gradually move up one degree at a time. This will keep the emergency heat from turning on.
Keep your thermostat at 68 degrees in the winter. Each degree you heat your home above 68 can add as much as four percent to your utility bill.
I tell my customers it doesn't hurt to run in emergency heat for a couple days to a week. That's what it's there for. The problem with emergency heat is when your system is only running on emergency heat for some time. That indicates a problem with your heat pump. It's only a short term fix until you can have your system repaired. When your system runs on emergency heat for weeks on end, you get that shocking utility bill. So don't wait. Call and schedule your service call, and get the issue repaired.
Continual cold winter days, like last winter, will also double your electric bill. I suggest you lower the thermostat and use a space heater. Trying to heat your whole home with temperatures below freezing for a week or more only makes your electric company happy!
Heat only the parts of your home that you're using. Heating each room with space heaters throughout the house is more expensive than heating just part of it. If you're not using your whole house, don't pay to heat your entire home. Instead, use space heaters or heating panels in the rooms that you actually use.
Turn it off when you don't need it. Space heaters should never run when you're away!
Living in Central VA, chances are you own a heat pump, which supplies both your cooling AND heating needs. So like all expensive electronics, you don't want to ignore a problem!
Waiting could cause large heating or cooling bills now. It could also be a variety of things causing your air conditioner to not cool, from simple fixes (such as a capacitor) to larger issues (such as a compressor). And waiting to worry about your A/C next season could equal large heating bills THIS SEASON.
Take care of your system BEFORE problems have time to escalate, which ultimately saves you money in the long run. I've had homeowners who wish they had acted before the major parts of their system were damaged. A money-conscious home owner prefers to replace an inexpensive part now than end up replacing expensive or multiple parts later that failed due to not being timely with care.
You know by now...schedule that tune-up! We replace filters, check refrigerant levels, and identify any potential issues before you get stuck with no A/C.
Remove any debris, such as leaves or grass clippings, from around the outdoor unit. This helps ensure proper airflow and prevents overheating.
Use fans: Running ceiling fans can help circulate cool air and make your home feel cooler, allowing you to set your AC at a higher temperature.
Close curtains and blinds: During the hottest parts of the day, close curtains and blinds to prevent sunlight from entering your home and heating it up.
Most systems have a lifetime of 15 to 20 years. As your equipment gets older, it's efficiency can decrease dramatically. You may notice that it gets noisier and needs repairs more often. When a unit begins to show it's age, you have two choices: you can overhaul the system or replace it.
Because heating and cooling technologies improve over time, a new system designed with newer, more energy-efficient equipment makes sense, especially if your system is 10 or more years old.
SEER stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio. SEER ratings indicate how efficiently an air conditioner or heat pump converts electricity into cooling capacity, essentially measuring the amount of cooling produced (in BTUs) for the amount of electricity used (in watts) over a cooling season
Why it matters: A higher SEER rating means the unit is more energy-efficient, requiring less electricity to achieve the same cooling output, potentially leading to lower energy bills.
SEER2: There's also a newer standard called SEER2, which is an updated version of the SEER rating system, mandated by the Department of Energy (DOE) and effective January 1, 2023
Finding the SEER rating: You can typically find the SEER rating on the yellow label that's required on all new HVAC systems sold in the United States.
Example: A 16 SEER air conditioner is more energy-efficient than a 14 SEER unit, meaning it will use less energy to cool your home
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"From the moment they arrived, Jaunsee explained everything patiently, answered all my questions, and made sure I felt confident about the process. The installation itself was flawless — every detail was handled with care and precision. The team was respectful, tidy, and truly went above and beyond to make sure everything was perfect before they left. I’m truly grateful to Jaunsee and his team and would highly recommend them to anyone looking for an HVAC company you can trust."